Alcalá de Henares

The last Saturday of my mom's visit was full of surprises.

The day began with Morgan's team winning their game- which was surprising as they've only won 2 others all year.   We had planned a day trip but we were a little uneasy because of the distance and remoteness of where we were going. We had had car trouble and Brent had surprisingly, successfully bandaged the issue (temporarily).

While hanging out during Morgan's game we struck up a conversation with a dad on the opposing team that was speaking English. Out of the blue he mentioned Roman ruins in Alcalá de Henares which he had just learned about on a TV program. We quickly and comfortably change our plans since it was much closer and more populated.

We had heard that Alcalá de Henares had a nice historic area (like most Spanish towns) but we didn't know how great it was.  

City of Complutum. The Monumental Complex Forum

Romans conquered this area near a previous Celtiberian settlement and built the town of Complutum  in the first century A.D.  

The town of Complutum had a second period of expansion during the third century, and it existed until the sixth or seventh century, until the Roman Empire fall.  



Cumplutum was almost forgotten during the 19th and 20th centuries until it was re-discovered in the 1980’s. Archaeology work began in 1985.

These Roman ruins aren't the largest or the best we have seen, but it is said that about 50 % of them lie under the adjacent apartment complexes. that were built right over temples, buildings etc.  in the 70's.   We found this extremely devastating. 

This room was used for hot water baths, in which the heating structure still remains  Heat was produced on the far end by two large ovens.  With the help of bellows, heat was introduced in the hollow space under the floor that was supported by the brick piles seen in the photo. 

This shows a pile of roof tiles as they landed during this building's destruction.

 

The University of Alcalá

The University of Alcalá or the Colegio Mayor de San Ildefonso is one of the most prestigious universities in Spain and it is one of the most well-known monuments in Alcalá de Henares, which was the only thing we knew about in Alcalá de Henares before this day.  The current Plateresque façade (pictured) and building date from the early 16th century, the interior still contains classrooms from the original structure. 

Located next to the University facade is the Church of San Ildefonso, which serves as the school chapel of the University.

This Colegio Convento de Trinitarios Descalzos de la Santísima Trinidad, (or college with a very long name) was built in 1601.   It was once home to the military and now it is currently being used as part of the University of Alcalá as the Center for American Studies.

Birthplace of Miquel Cervantes

As we were wandering the old historic area we surprisingly came upon the birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra author of Don Quixote.  The "Casa de Cervantes",  currently serves as a museum.

The two floors of this house have perfectly been restored to the original appearance that it had during the sixteenth century.

 Miguel de Cervantes was born in this house in early October 1547. The museum included decorative articles of Cervantes’ time, as well as an extensive collection of old and new editions of Cervantes’ writing including very old editions of Don Quixote and artwork.

Along this walking district we noticed these mismatched pillars, and although many of them didn't appear to be that old, some looked like they must have come from the old  "Complutum". 

For example, these two in the center, must have been two of the ones they replaced in Complutum with the obvious reproductions currently being displayed.  This 19th century Palacio de Laredo is the most unique of all the monuments in Alcala de Henares.

This 19th century Palacio de Laredo is the most unique of all the monuments in Alcala de Henares.

The designer tried to include elements of all architectural styles. It was designed and built by Manuel Jose de Laredo who later became the mayor.  
 

The Cathedral of St Justus and St Pastor was built between 1497 and 1516 as a Gothic church. The church was built on the site where the children Justo and Pastor of Alcala were martyred in 305 A.D. and where their remains are to this day. 

"One of the emperors’ chief persecutors of Christians in the early years of the 4th century was a man named Diocletian, who journeyed through Spain in a frenzy of violence and terror. In 304, he reached Alcalá, and proclaimed that all Christians, on threat of death, renounce their faith. Two schoolboys, Justus (age 13) and Pastor (less than 9), heard of this and determined to show that their own Christian faith was as strong as that of any of their elders by publicly reciting their catechism.  He ordered that they both be savagely flogged. But although the sentence was viciously enacted, neither flinched. Instead the two boys shouted words of encouragement to each other, which only whipped their tormentors to further fury. Diocletian  was shamed by their bravery. He still wished to have them killed, but the sentence was carried out secretly. They were beheaded outside Alcalá, when no one was about, but some fellow-Christians found their bodies and buried them where they had died."

Just 16 towers remain from the 14th century defensive walls which once had 22 towers.   In the nineteenth century,  it was decided to demolish the old fortress whose walls only complicated the passage of people and goods to the growing city at that time.  And again, just more loss of history due to the growth of the city.

 

Alcala de Henares, has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.  Nearly as  soon as we arrived I began to wonder how we hadn't known much about Alcalá de Henares which is less than an hour from our home. 
  .

And now off to plan our next road trip!